The Cave

We decided on the spur of the moment to arrange a trip to an eco-lodge in the Bolivian Amazon Rainforest…

Dashing into a travel agent in La Paz at 6pm, we discussed our options and in (considerably) less than 24 hours, we were on a little plane heading off towards the Amazon Basin.

Anyone familiar with the smallest Aurigny Tri-Lander planes in the Channel Islands will have a good idea of the type of aircraft we were on: it seated around 13 people and a pilot. The flight to the bustling town (large village!) of Ruranebaqe took about an hour - soaring over the impressive Amazonian landscape, and brushing the undercarriage over treetops as we came in to land on the short grass landing strip.

Happily, Tom and I love flying so we enjoyed every minute of the flight: noses pushed up against the perspex windows, taking it all in.

We spent the first night in Ruranebaqe (which is connected to “civilisation” by a road - the infamous “world’s most dangerous road”). It certainly felt quite an isolated place, but with a few good bars and restaurants. Pottering around, it became quite disorientating as you walk down one bustling road to find it just come to an abrupt end and the rainforest begin!

The next morning we met the other couple who were heading to Chalalan Eco Lodge with us. A slightly loud Canadian couple who, for some unknown reason, totally disregarded the advice of Yhovane, our local guide.

We readied ourselves for the 5 hour trip up-river by dug-out canoe. The ride was actually more comfortable than you might expect, and the boat did have a little motor on it. We stopped en route for a picnic lunch on a sandy bank…

…so a the boat ride (and a short hike) later, we were at the eco-lodge. Now we definitely felt isolated!

The beautiful lodge was situated on the banks of a small lake, and there were only two other guests staying there at the same time as us. Our guide and the other members of staff (all local - from the village which established, and continue to run Chalalan) were all fabulous!

Our three day (two night) stay was incredible! I can’t really describe it. We went on hikes, took a trip over the lake, did a night walk (sadly cut short by the rain, but not before we saw a HUGE bird-eating tarantula and her young). I was also incredibly sick…

No idea what caused it, but for about 24 hours I was not a pleasant sight (some would argue I’m not a pleasant sight at the best of times…). I had both Yhovane (our by now very worried guide) and Tom (also rather worried, but probably more about the mess…) sitting on the opposite bed watching me violently vomiting… Needless to say, that didn’t help much. The weird tea concoction, however did, and I made a swift(ish) recovery. It did mean I missed out on the evening’s entertainment, which I’m a bit annoyed about.

Still, swinging in my hammock, watching the biggest butterflies I have ever seen float passed, listening to the howler monkeys, and generally relaxing…well, it could have been worse!